LENSADVISER
The lens is the most important - (and the most expensive) part of your photographic equipment.
I do not attach a lens to a camera - I ATTACH a CAMERA to a LENS - not joking.
A camera is just the device, which translates the image captured through the lens to either film or in our days a sensor.
While in the film age you had in 24x36 - 35mm film - terms only one choice (if you neglect the APS and 24x24mm part started by ROBOT in Germany...
Now, you can have your lens working in many effective focal length - as an example, a 100mm 2.8 lens becomes:
A 130mm lens on a Canon Pro camera with a 1.3x "crop" factor (which is not the correct explanation, but the name crop factor for the magnification effect of a smaller than 24x36mm sensor is now used allover)
A 150mm lens on most of the D-SLRS, i.e. SONY (A100-A700), Pentax (all), NIKON (x00, x000 series),
A 160mm lens on the lower priced Canon cameras
A 170mm lens on the SIGMA DS14 (seems to be out of production)
A 200mm lens on OLYMPUS 4/3rds (e3-30; e410-620)and Mini 4/3rds like the OLYMPUS E-P1 or the fabulous PANASONIC G1
Stays a 100mm lens on FF cameras like NIKON D3, D700, CANON 1DS Mark III, 5D,
SONY A900..
..while keeping f/2.8 - imagine, my NIKOR 400mm f/2.8 is now a 800mm f/2.8 on an E3 with the lensAll adapter....
http://digital-photography-school.com/crop-factor-explained
Above link gives you a quite good explanation!
Using different cameras to get different focal length also keeps me concentrated on primes, with much better image quality. I really do not care too much, which brand I shoot..
..differences in the same price class are marginal!
You will keep your lenses for years and years to come.
Be careful adding a "new" lens to your equipment, AND DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY BY THE NICE BROCHURES of the manufacturers, they do barely make money with cameras due to the hard competition, but lots with accessories..
..SOME BASIC RULES
A) ONLY buy lenses suited for 'Full Frame' - you will be amazed how affordable those cameras will be soon.
B) Get f/2.8 for the widest aperture - This is expensive, but pays off in the long run!
C) "Focus" on Primes - lighter than Zooms, better quality, relatively inexpensive!
I do not attach a lens to a camera - I ATTACH a CAMERA to a LENS - not joking.
A camera is just the device, which translates the image captured through the lens to either film or in our days a sensor.
While in the film age you had in 24x36 - 35mm film - terms only one choice (if you neglect the APS and 24x24mm part started by ROBOT in Germany...
Now, you can have your lens working in many effective focal length - as an example, a 100mm 2.8 lens becomes:
A 130mm lens on a Canon Pro camera with a 1.3x "crop" factor (which is not the correct explanation, but the name crop factor for the magnification effect of a smaller than 24x36mm sensor is now used allover)
A 150mm lens on most of the D-SLRS, i.e. SONY (A100-A700), Pentax (all), NIKON (x00, x000 series),
A 160mm lens on the lower priced Canon cameras
A 170mm lens on the SIGMA DS14 (seems to be out of production)
A 200mm lens on OLYMPUS 4/3rds (e3-30; e410-620)and Mini 4/3rds like the OLYMPUS E-P1 or the fabulous PANASONIC G1
Stays a 100mm lens on FF cameras like NIKON D3, D700, CANON 1DS Mark III, 5D,
SONY A900..
..while keeping f/2.8 - imagine, my NIKOR 400mm f/2.8 is now a 800mm f/2.8 on an E3 with the lensAll adapter....
http://digital-photography-school.com/crop-factor-explained
Above link gives you a quite good explanation!
Using different cameras to get different focal length also keeps me concentrated on primes, with much better image quality. I really do not care too much, which brand I shoot..
..differences in the same price class are marginal!
You will keep your lenses for years and years to come.
Be careful adding a "new" lens to your equipment, AND DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY BY THE NICE BROCHURES of the manufacturers, they do barely make money with cameras due to the hard competition, but lots with accessories..
..SOME BASIC RULES
A) ONLY buy lenses suited for 'Full Frame' - you will be amazed how affordable those cameras will be soon.
B) Get f/2.8 for the widest aperture - This is expensive, but pays off in the long run!
C) "Focus" on Primes - lighter than Zooms, better quality, relatively inexpensive!
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